MUST READ MANUAL    
                       PEEP GOES IN UPSIDE DOWN       
   JUST ONE ITEM THAT IS DIFFERENT, SO READ THIS.

1.  Peep sight must be installed upside down.  See inside page picture.  Failure to do so causes rubber tube to interfere with cam
and string.  Cut rubber tube shorter to make peep turn completely.  Secure (tie it in) peep after positioning.  
Peep tube should be attached 3-4 inches below cable head.  
Bow Jaxs must not touch cable stop.

2.  Drawing with fingers results in very painful finger pinch (due to the string angle)
and may cause a high torque let-down or dry fire.

3.  A zero torque position is achieved by centering the cables between the limbs
(See Full Draw Picture right).  Use loosely held high wrist position.  Test for
torque by shooting through paper (paper mounted on open frame) see #4.

4.  Side paper tears are caused by hand torque, by low wrist, by low
arrow spine, by to short of peep tube, or by side off hook type of
release (use caliper type release).  Purposely torque bow to get
opposite tear, note cable and limb position in getting the opposite tear.

5.  The loop is dead center, secured by speed nock.  Do Not Move!
Do not install metal string loops, they catch in cables and Bow-Jaxs.
A replaced loop or string will result in a un-centered loop requiring fine
sync adjustment (to eliminate hand shock).  If you want to try to improve
on the factory sync, see back page of these instructions.   

6.  If you use a Whisker Biscuit (the one bought with the bow) make sure that the
arrow diameter is 19XX (.297) or smaller.  Hostage rest has no restrictions.

7.  Heavy spine arrows are required. 15+ lbs (point weight dependant) above bow
or 10 lb above bow for Carbon Revolution Arrows.   Example, a 60 lb bow should
use arrows spined for a 75 lb bow.  Arrow fletching should be no higher than 1/2
inch.  We lowered
minimum arrow weight to 4.0 gr/lb, 70 lb bow is 280
grains and 60 lb is 240 grains.

8.  Cam synchronization:  See instructions below.

Note: Bow can be restrung using a old long string and the string changer.
Alpine bow quiver mounting Liberty I bow
PEEP & SIMS ASSEMBLY
Pick the desired peep size (small, medium, or large, start with medium)
and install as shown.  Place the rubber protection ring around peep
before shooting.   The peep stem must be pointed up or slightly left
(keeps rubber tube from getting into cam when peep is mounted within
2 inches of cam).  Attach other end of rubber tubing to cable on the
upper right, 3-4” below cable head (See Stem Position right).  The
optional upper string Sims (noise abatement) is mounted below peep
with one speed nock below it.
Note: If you prefer using your string for self-aligning the peep, cut peep stem off and
eliminate the rubber tube.

ARROW RESTS
The Hostage and Whisker Biscuit arrow rests work great with this bow due to their full
containment and light weight characteristics.  Fall-a-ways are heavy and may
unbalance the cables but can be used.  Strongly suggest you try the recommended
rests.

SIGHT MOUNTING
Two 5/8 inch spacers (plus screws) are supplied to mount the bow sight as shown.

OTHER SIGHTS
Other sights can be used but they have 3 disadvantages:
1) They have a 3.5” extension bar and heavy clamps on
each end.  The result is a heavy sight and the light weight Liberty I sight bracket design
is wasted.
2) The 3.5” extension increases the possibility of sight bar fracture if dropped from stand.
3) The 3.5” extension makes the bow unable to fit into the Liberty bow case.

STRING LOOP  is a must. Do not move.

STABILIZER  Sims Mini S coil is the best if you really need one.

RELEASE  Use only caliper (both jaws open) type releases like
T.R.U. Ball Copperhead Xtra.  The release is short and helps the
longer draw needed due to the string angle (especially for those
who touch the string to their nose).  The 1/2-3/4 inch longer draw
increases your arrow speed.

SETTING PEAK WEIGHT
One full 360 degree turn equals 4-5 lbs.  Mark screw so that you
turn both sides equally. Turn one-half turn on each side at a time.   
Do not turn more than 2.5 turns to get 10 lb draw weight reduction.  
All bows and this bow perform best at peak weight.
Note: Tuning or adjustment to your new bow should not be needed.  It may be many years before you need to
change the string and at that time you may need to re-sync the bow as shown below.  Many archers like to   
tinker with their new bow and it is possible to improve on the factory set synchronization (See below).
Liberty one cable allignment and synchronization

ANY hand shock can be eliminated by adjusting the  
synchronization.  Very easy process, all you need is allen key
and pliers. Takes 15 minutes. Only need to adjust top cam.

1) Shoot  bow and take note of the hand shock.

2) Mark with Sharpie the cable end directly below the set screw as show
by the photo 1 to the right.

3) Loosen set screws with long end of  Allen-Key as shown in photo 2
lower right.  Using the short end of the Allen-Key may strip set screw.
If you strip the set screw use larger 4-40X1/8" no tapping is needed.

4) Turn with pliers (Photo 3) both cable ends to the right about 1/8 turn.
Turn both equally so the marks are on the right hand side as show in
photo 4.
5) Tighten set scews and shoot bow again.

6) If hand shock is  gone, you are done.  If hand shock is greater
Repeat step 3 & 4, but this time turn both to the left.

7) You can use the sensitivity of you hand to feel which way to turn and
the amount to turn the cable ends to totally eliminate the shock..  
Photo 1
Liberty one set screw cable adjusment for allignment and synchronization
Liberty one cable adjusment for allignment and synchronization
Photo 3
Photo 2
Liberty one cable adjusment when finished
Photo 4
The Liberty bow is very stable (due to the steel cables)
The factory settings should hold for the life of the bow.

Changing the string and putting on a new string loop
may slightly de-sync bow if the new loop is not centered.

Minor Re-Syncing is an easy procedure, which is done
with nothing more than a Allen-Key and  pliers.

PROPER HAND POSITION (Bow is tuned at factory no tuning needed)
Hi Howard,
I am having a problem tuning my bow.  I am getting right tares and can’
t seem to correct it.  I tried stiffer arrows and softer spine arrows.  I tried
different grain points.  My string loop is dead center as well as my
arrow rest.  My timing seems to be dead on.  I have tuned a lot of bow
but this little guy has me stumped.  Can you give me any other
suggestions please.  Buy the way the bow is still awesome and I get a
lot of comments and laughs until they see me shoot it.  They just can’t
believe what they are seeing.  You should start getting more orders
from around me area because the guys love it.  Thanks Chad Reed

Chad ,
Try a different release, Due to the low holding weight a release that
sildes off a lever throws arrows sideways.  Use Caliper type release.
Twist the bow so you get a left tear. Item #4 on the instruction. sheet.  
Note  where the cables are in relation to the limbs at full draw, Twist
wrist to get left tear and then right tear. Use this experience to shoot a
bullet hole (Cables aligned/centered between limbs).  Do not adjust
arrow rest off of center as set by factory.

Hi Howard,
Hey Thanks for the advise. That is what I was doing, when I drew back I
was torqing the bow. Now that I found my proper hand position the little
sweet heart shoots bullet holes. Bow is the best. Thanks for your time.
Chad Reed

QUIVER MOUNTING
Pictured is the removable Alpine Bear Claw.
Many mounting angles are possible, long arrows use the greatest
angle to reduce the “through the brush” profile.  Others, to keep
the bow light, use the CatQuiver (back quiver) and hang the bow
on the quiver.















CABLE SILENCERS
Many testers said that the bow is quiet without
the Bow-Jaxs, but if you want to see how quiet a bow can get, install them.  
Silver marks are provided as position markers.  Just cover the silver mark
as you go toward the cam.  They mount 1/16” from the cam at full draw.  
Use two cable ties per Jax as shown, tighten hard and then clip off the ends.  
Note: Limb Sims have no effect.

PEEP SIGHT ADJUSTMENT
Flipping the peep, or switching peep size,  is best done (with assistant) at
full draw (there is only 10 lbs of tension).  Use a dull pointed tool of any sort.   
The rubber ring goes back around the peep as shown on opposite page.  
Shoot a few times to get the peep in the right spot and then tie it in.  Put
10-15 wraps around the string at the bottom of the peep, then up around
the peep stem, back down for a few knots, up around the stem again, and
then finish with 5 wraps at the bottom with knots.  There is no need to tie
above the peep when the rubber ring is around the peep.

CHANGING STRING
With 2 people you can change the string.
One to bring the bow to full draw and the other to tie or hook (then tighten)
the cams together as show on the right.  MUST BE VERY TIGHT.  
Archery sight attachment for Liberty bow
Liberty Archery bow string changer
Liberty archery bow cable silencers Bow Jax
script src="http://www.google-analytics.com/urchin.js" type="text/javascript">
Goal is 30+ years bow longivity

We have one customer that shoots
200 shots a day and has been doing
that since May of 2005.  So if we
take time out for vacations etc we
estimate he has shot the Liberty I
bow about 300,000 times on the old
cables.  Now, the new cables with the
speed nock, improve on the old
cables by 70%.

You can see that with the speed
nocks attached the cable the cable
can’t bend easily and the speed
nock's plastic cushion softens the
bend.
Note: smaller hands can
push the back of the handle
and get the same effect.
This a advanced micro
adjustment to side torque.
Non Liberty Sights
The Liberty bow riser has the sight bar extension built-in.  
When you use other sights (all have a 3.5” extension and
heavy mounting hardware on both ends).  What you have in
essence is two extension bars which
greatly increase risk
of damage to riser and sight.
 Also, sight must be taken
off to fit in case.
The New 3 pin Sight has 7” of fiber attached to a glow ring
(2 pins .019, other .029).  

Arrow Rests
Most other full containment rests work.  We chose the
Hostage and Whisker Biscuit because they are light and
accurate.   Full containment rests are recommended
because of the high let-off.   The arrow rest is set from the
factory and should not adjusted for the life of the bow.  
Adjustable arrow rests add needless weight.

Keep it Light
With Liberty Sight and Hostage or Whisker Biscuit bow
weight goes from 2.3 lbs to 2.52 lbs. Same goes for quivers
and stablizers on the bow. You should not need a stablizer
and get a quiver to carry the bow on.
Liberty Archery bow draw weight adjustment
Those who choose
not to read these
8 simple instructions
are making a BIG
mistake.  I venture
to say all of those
few people who are
unhappy with the
bow or sold it to
someone else did
not read these 8
simple instructions.
POUNDAGE ADJUSTMENT
Best to leave alone, bow
works best at poundage
sent.  Max adjustment 2.5
turns.

When you reduce the bow
draw weight and then
tighten the limb bolts to
bring it back to the
previous weight--APPLY
ONLY ENOUGH PRESSURE
TO MAKE THE LIMB
POCKETS TOUCH.
Touching the thumb is
a advanced technique
and is used only after
you have mastered
major wrist position.
Some people put
a slight 5% touch
with the palm on
the handle to
steady while
maintaining most
weight on the "X"
D-Loop tieing for Liberty archery bow
Tie D-Loop
Liberty I peep sight arrangement
Peep tube on liberty bow
Ultimate Survivalist Bow