MUST READ MANUAL PEEP GOES IN UPSIDE DOWN JUST ONE ITEM THAT IS DIFFERENT, SO READ THIS. 1. Peep sight must be installed upside down. See inside page picture. Failure to do so causes rubber tube to interfere with cam and string. Cut rubber tube shorter to make peep turn completely. Secure (tie it in) peep after positioning. Peep tube should be attached 3-4 inches below cable head. Bow Jaxs must not touch cable stop. 2. Drawing with fingers results in very painful finger pinch (due to the string angle) and may cause a high torque let-down or dry fire. 3. A zero torque position is achieved by centering the cables between the limbs (See Full Draw Picture right). Use loosely held high wrist position. Test for torque by shooting through paper (paper mounted on open frame) see #4. 4. Side paper tears are caused by hand torque, by low wrist, by low arrow spine, by to short of peep tube, or by side off hook type of release (use caliper type release). Purposely torque bow to get opposite tear, note cable and limb position in getting the opposite tear. 5. The loop is dead center, secured by speed nock. Do Not Move! Do not install metal string loops, they catch in cables and Bow-Jaxs. A replaced loop or string will result in a un-centered loop requiring fine sync adjustment (to eliminate hand shock). If you want to try to improve on the factory sync, see back page of these instructions. 6. If you use a Whisker Biscuit (the one bought with the bow) make sure that the arrow diameter is 19XX (.297) or smaller. Hostage rest has no restrictions. 7. Heavy spine arrows are required. 15+ lbs (point weight dependant) above bow or 10 lb above bow for Carbon Revolution Arrows. Example, a 60 lb bow should use arrows spined for a 75 lb bow. Arrow fletching should be no higher than 1/2 inch. We lowered minimum arrow weight to 4.0 gr/lb, 70 lb bow is 280 grains and 60 lb is 240 grains. 8. Cam synchronization: See instructions below. Note: Bow can be restrung using a old long string and the string changer. |

| Note: Tuning or adjustment to your new bow should not be needed. It may be many years before you need to change the string and at that time you may need to re-sync the bow as shown below. Many archers like to tinker with their new bow and it is possible to improve on the factory set synchronization (See below). |

ANY hand shock can be eliminated by adjusting the synchronization. Very easy process, all you need is allen key and pliers. Takes 15 minutes. Only need to adjust top cam. 1) Shoot bow and take note of the hand shock. 2) Mark with Sharpie the cable end directly below the set screw as show by the photo 1 to the right. 3) Loosen set screws with long end of Allen-Key as shown in photo 2 lower right. Using the short end of the Allen-Key may strip set screw. If you strip the set screw use larger 4-40X1/8" no tapping is needed. 4) Turn with pliers (Photo 3) both cable ends to the right about 1/8 turn. Turn both equally so the marks are on the right hand side as show in photo 4. 5) Tighten set scews and shoot bow again. 6) If hand shock is gone, you are done. If hand shock is greater Repeat step 3 & 4, but this time turn both to the left. 7) You can use the sensitivity of you hand to feel which way to turn and the amount to turn the cable ends to totally eliminate the shock.. |



| The Liberty bow is very stable (due to the steel cables) The factory settings should hold for the life of the bow. Changing the string and putting on a new string loop may slightly de-sync bow if the new loop is not centered. Minor Re-Syncing is an easy procedure, which is done with nothing more than a Allen-Key and pliers. |
PROPER HAND POSITION (Bow is tuned at factory no tuning needed) Hi Howard, I am having a problem tuning my bow. I am getting right tares and can’ t seem to correct it. I tried stiffer arrows and softer spine arrows. I tried different grain points. My string loop is dead center as well as my arrow rest. My timing seems to be dead on. I have tuned a lot of bow but this little guy has me stumped. Can you give me any other suggestions please. Buy the way the bow is still awesome and I get a lot of comments and laughs until they see me shoot it. They just can’t believe what they are seeing. You should start getting more orders from around me area because the guys love it. Thanks Chad Reed Chad , Try a different release, Due to the low holding weight a release that sildes off a lever throws arrows sideways. Use Caliper type release. Twist the bow so you get a left tear. Item #4 on the instruction. sheet. Note where the cables are in relation to the limbs at full draw, Twist wrist to get left tear and then right tear. Use this experience to shoot a bullet hole (Cables aligned/centered between limbs). Do not adjust arrow rest off of center as set by factory. Hi Howard, Hey Thanks for the advise. That is what I was doing, when I drew back I was torqing the bow. Now that I found my proper hand position the little sweet heart shoots bullet holes. Bow is the best. Thanks for your time. Chad Reed |






| Those who choose not to read these 8 simple instructions are making a BIG mistake. I venture to say all of those few people who are unhappy with the bow or sold it to someone else did not read these 8 simple instructions. |
| POUNDAGE ADJUSTMENT Best to leave alone, bow works best at poundage sent. Max adjustment 2.5 turns. When you reduce the bow draw weight and then tighten the limb bolts to bring it back to the previous weight--APPLY ONLY ENOUGH PRESSURE TO MAKE THE LIMB POCKETS TOUCH. |


